Showing posts with label Gudalloor. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gudalloor. Show all posts

Saturday, May 21, 2011

Rediscovering Ooty (Part 1): Driver's Dream Roads - Calicut to Ooty


Ooty route

The adrenalin is rushing, not because of an adventurous ride, not because we are travelling at breath neck speeds, but due the prospect of the impending journey through one of the most beautiful and scenic roads of God's own country Kerala. A guy who is passionate about any road trips, be it his routine daily trips to office or through badly maintained roads, needs nothing more to feel excited.

Akin to the period of a blossoming love, everything around starts to look beautiful - the colorless cloudy sky brightened up by the rising sun and even the roads inside Kozhikkode city which has a deserted look. It is just ten minutes into the journey which started from Kozhikkode and Feroke Bridge, the southern exit to Kozhikkode city, is already in sight.

kozhikkode ooty route


The water underneath seemed to enjoying their stillness while we glided over them. Bridges, one of the major engineering feats, always has got a special charm and each one has got its own identity. Travelling through a bridge is sure a pleasant experience for all, coz it brings out a different experience from the tarmac laid on soil, add to it an unobstructed panoramic view of the surroundings too.

Feroke is always characterized by the umpteen number of lorries cris crossing the road, many of them parked in such a way that only a miniscule portion of the road is available for moving vehicles and the scenario is quite dangerous. It is just 15 minutes past 7 in the morning and the situation is no different. A level4 pass in the game of road rash is a must to qualify for driving in these roads.

The lorry dense Feroke is slowly giving way to the wide open roads of Ramanattukara. The junction roads are so wide that on a harthal day it is enough to set up a cricket match here. Even in this junction accidents are frequent, thanks to the maniac drivers who just cross the road to bus stand positioned in junction giving scant respect to the oncoming traffic without any signals whatsoever. All this happens with a traffic police as a witness, who never intereferes with the driving techniques of those who rule the road.

Immediately after the junction roads split into two and we have to take the straight one which is the Nilambur route. The road to the right takes us down south to Thrissur. Seems like Ramanattukara market has already started bustling with activity.


ramanattukara

Another junction is coming up. This is the place where the road inside the city intersects with the bypass. To the right is Thrissur and to the left is Kannur. We have to go straight, eastwards carefully crossing the bypass, where a similar intersection just 5 kms away claimed the life of 5 people when a private bus coming from the city, ignoring the read light stormed into the bypass hitting sideways a car which was going through the bypass. Thankfully here there are no traffic signal lights to jump.


Goodbye to Kozhikkode city and we are now in buttersmooth roads with the occasional twisties and to give company there are lot of taxis and cars laden with luggage a mini lorry can carry and occupancy in these five seater vehicles will be atleast seven. It is an easy guess to find out that an airport is around and typically the density of such vehicles increase near airports. Interestingly only one among them will be travelling and the rest are going to see them off. The irony is that in the airport no one other than the passenger can get inside even the lounge due to security reasons.

The kozhikkode airport is just before Kondotty and once the diversion to the airport is passed trafic seems to be reduced drastically. Kondotty town is still sleeping. There is a diversion here and we have to take the left turn to Nilambur.



Some more big twisties and itz a pleasure to just guide the vehicle through the extreme left, with the slight press of accelerator keeping it in the turbo range and just zooming off once the turn is completed.

Another town is approaching fast, Manjeri, the commercial capital of Malappuram. Before we enter the heart of this town situated right in the foot of Western Ghats we have to make a left turn. Yes the turn is in sight and the sign board shows the direction to Ooty.



Some more of the town roads is passing by, which houses almost all the government establishments of Malappuram.

One more junction is approaching and thankfully there is no sign boards, no GPS in vehicle means the only way to confirm the route is the good old method, just open your mouth and ask.



The good fellow in his Malabar accent not only specified that it is a left turn here, but also reminded that we have to take the next right turn.

A little ahead there is a small road to the right, but my better half, based on her intelligent thought process announced that we have to take the straight road. A little into this road and I am growing suspicious. Another direction query properly answered and we have to turn our vehicle back and the road which we early saw. Just after the eastward turn the geography suddenly changed. The hill roads were still not in sight, but the road was completely engulfed by the lush greenery on both sides with really tall trees on both sides.


The density of these tree folks is beginning to increase and the feeling is like we are getting lost in a jungle, even though the place is by no means a jungle.



Roads continue to be smooth and the gliding is continuing. Another scene change is in the offing. The density of trees has not gone down, but surely more light is coming through it, thanks to the less densely packed leaves of these big teak trees.


The appearance of teak trees signifies the approach of another popular tourist destination Nilambur. One of the most beautiful hamlets of Kerala with umpteen number of beautiful tourist spots. I have made an exclusive coverage of Nilambur in one of my earlier travelogues. (You can read it by clicking here).

Breakfast time is approaching and right after Manjeri we were looking for a Hotel, Nilambur approached and still no hotels in sight, some of them were closed. We are now in the heart of Nilambur town and most of the shops are closed, seems like this city comes to life very late, thanks to the population who will be mostly business oriented. At last one hotel with ample parking lot is visible. This hotel is jampacked with tourists who came in two buses having their breakfast. So we have to move out and look out for another. Nilambur town is now history and still no hotels in sight.

A board pointing to Vazhiyoram restaurant is visible. Vazhiyoram project is an initiative of Govt of Kerala jointly with some private partnership to offer quality restaurant and rest room facilities to tourists. The Vazhiyoram board is pointing to take a right turn from the road and with anticipation we follow suite.

The vazhiyoram restaurant is in sight, a neat little building.


But their seems to be zero activity here too. I could spot a homosapien moving around and he promptly told me. "Food is not ready saar. Breakfast will be ready only by 10am". The term Government seems to bring a lethargy to all the people involved just like the way the most of the Government workers are.

Our breakfast dreams seems to be over as we are now again cruising through the brilliant roads with the beautiful trees on the sides giving us company. A big bridge is appearing. Once on top of the bridge the view is awesome. Oh I am going to stop right after the bridge just to walk back and enjoy the scenery around. We are in for another surprise here. Right after the bridge amidst the big teak trees stood a colorful building and the board read - "KTDC Tamarind Hotel"



Within a minute we are inside the tamarind hotel and luckily the response of the reception to the food query is positive.



Ample time for me to walk back to the bridge and to have view of the beautiful landscape around. Isn't this beautiful


The distant view provided a moutain too in the backdrop.

The other side of the bridge is not too bad either. This tamarind hotel also have rooms facing this side of the river.

For those who want to explore Nilambur can very well stay in this beautiful hotel where room rents are in the range of 1000 to 1500 INR per day for AC rooms. A great bargain indeed.


I am not alone here as can see some beautiful cranes around too. They color were so contrasting to the surroundings.


The food in Tamarind hotel is typical Kerala food and everything is served neatly. A good one hour zoomed past inside this restaurant.

We are again back on track and beautiful roads starts again. It is dream to drive through these roads maintaining just enough speeds to twist and turn without applying brakes and keeping the vehicle on track.


Most of the trees on both sides are teak, but wait now we are in between a coconut farm. Watch the beautiful biggies from whose name Kerala got its name.



A forest checkpost is in sight. If the roads till now was superb, then what should I call the roads we are in now. It is superbly superb !! The big bamboos with the light green color was adding another dimension to the already beautiful surroundings.



This is the stretch which I was waiting for, the roads from Nilambur to Nadakani. It is just twisties and more twisties.


beautiful roads in Kerala


nilambur gudalur route

There is a rhythm in the movement of vehicle. Never do stop and accelerate kinds of turns here, just glide at the right speed. Enjoy the surroundings, open the windows and feel the fresh air. Watch the rich and diverser fauna. Some trees have there roots crafted like a complex neural network.


Nadugani churam

Sun's heat will never be intense in this part of the world. These roads should be experienced by the real passionate drivers atleast once in a life time and here being in God's own country I keep on coming back again and again to experience these roads and each time the passion just aggravates.

Here comes the first glimpse of coffee plantations



Even though the roads till now were not steep there was a regular upward ascent, something which justifies the kind of altitude we have gained when look to one side of the road. Big mountains are on sight now.



After around one hour of drive through these prestine environment, the vehicle was brought to a halt since my little daughter complained that shez feeling a little dizzy. But once outside all her dizziness went away.


It was just 2 days back that we decided to make a trip to Ooty, making use of the long weekend owing to the Vishu festival. Eventhough Ooty was least preferred, thanks to the highly dense hotel population making it not an adorable location, we chose it coz through a websearch, I had found a new resort much too far away from the hustle and bustle of Ooty. The anticipation of the unknown destination also is keeping us enthralled throughtout this journey.

The checkpost at Nadugani is visible now. We have to take the right turn from here.


The next town is Gudalloor, but before that the terrain ought to be more scenic as we are now amidst the western ghats.

Roads continue to be the same way as we saw earlier before Nadugani.



Only difference being that there were some population here which was completely absent before Nadugani. The plane twisties through forests are now paving their way out for the some steep climb to mountains and the postcardish scenaries is appearing one and after another in front of us.



The tea plantations is making the hill appear to be covered with green fur.

Another distance boards signalling that we are just 2km away from Gudaloor.




After Gudaloor it is just another 20km drive to the not so famous resort about which we have lots of expectations. As we are nearing by the excitment even gave way to some anxiety for if the resort is not so good then we are in for a real loss as we had 3 days at our perusal.

More buildings, most of then showing signs of age appear as Gudaloor town in sight. The left road takes one to Mudumalai, while the right one is to Ooty.


Gudaloor

Immediately after Gudalor, roads narrowed down, owing to the shops and some buildings which encroaches into the road.


The upward climb has started. The guy on the other end of the phone at Brookdale resort, confirmed that after 20km of travel through this road, we can see the sign board to the resort on the left side. The beautiful landscape is continuing. Watch how beautifully arranged these trees are.



The real twisties with upward climb is now on and I am completely turned on. The vehicle was surging ahead completely in agreement with the exhilaration and the excitement with which I am guiding it on. The enjoyement of keeping it in the turbo mode ensures that the upward climb is a cakewalk even with 7 passengers and their luggage on board.

As expected we are now in parallel with some mountain peaks.



Again we are descending and all of sudden we seem to be in the midst of a valley with really tall pine trees around. Oh boy this is some sight!!!


pine trees ooty


The sight of those trees seem to be etched in our minds, but the excitement of driving by the sidelines of high mountains is really special with deep trenches on one side and gigantic terrain on another side. This is hilly roads at its best.



Another sudden change in landscape. The tree covered mountains are history and ente the green veiled medows.



This journey is completely eventful for any nature enthusiast as the kind of scenery one gets to view keeps on changing. After each kind of terrain one begans to wonder what next. And here comes another change.
A beautiful lake is in sight, add to it the medows, the big moutains in the backdrop, the cattle's grazing, a location which brings out the artist in you.


woodbrook lake

This is the woodbrook lake and the resort guy had mentioned that their location is very near to the woodbrook lake. Naturally 14 eyes were on the prowl for that sign board showing - Brookdale and the search did not last long, just 1km after the woodbrook lake, the vehicle is swerving left to concrete laid tarmac, climbing really steeply into the resort's property



The first impression is really good as we could see some of the cottages facing the beautiful valleys. A sharp U turn followed suite and the parking lot is in sight. It was one of the most beautiful parking lots one could ever see, overlooking the beautiful moutains and paved with beautiful grass.


brookdale


The excitement grew manifold, as we unload the luggage, surveying the surroundings of the property which is spread out large, quite unlike other Ooty hotels. We sure made the right choice.


The journey from Kozhikkode (erstwhile Calicut) to Ooty via one of the most scenic roads in India, has surely lived upto the expectation. Now its time to check out this beautiful resort and the activities we can indulge here.

Lets enjoy this resort too after a small break !!

Click here to read the rest of the story
Part 2 - Brookdale Resort 
Part 3 - Woodbrook Lake
Part 4 - Ooty Kids Park, Film shooting point and a memorable camp fire



Thursday, September 10, 2009

Part 7-The return ride

Day 4 of this journey

As is the usual case of ride day, we overtook the alarms set in our mobiles. By 6am we were ready in our riding gear. Anil and crankie sticked to there plan for a late start owing to their ill health. So the first batch was finalized as Balan, Raghu, twinspark brothers and myself. It was 6:30 am when we finished loading our luggage on to our bulls.
One more snap of the parking lot. These bulls are going to different places of India, after sharing this space for 4 days.


We were already delayed by a good 30minutes or so from our planned start time. By this time breakfast was ready, Hence we decided to have breakfast before our start so that we can save our time for breakfast later on.

Went inside the conference room of the resort where breakfast was being served.
One snap of the scenic surroundings from this room. Slowly and steadily the natural light's intensity was increasing.


The breakfast was nice and the arrangements were neat and clean as is evident from this last snap taken at Ooty.


Overall the staying experience in Sterling resorts - Fernhill was nice. No hardships whatsoever, but the time we spent in this resort was very less, coz most of the time we were either roaming around Ooty or were at the main venue and came back late at night only to get a good sleep.
It was almost 7.15am, when we got into our bulls and started thumping out of Ooty, the ghat section was not so steep towards gudalloor, the roads were superbly maintained, with sufficient width, taking twisties in a bull amidst these scenic and beautiful roads is something of an experience, soon I found that Raghu and myself were ahead of the rest of the gang. Waited for them after some time.

Balan sir wanted to have a real leisurely ride and so did the twinspark brothers and so we decided to split once again, Raghu and myself will ride ahead with minimal stops so that we can meet our commitments later in the evening. The factor which drastically slows down our ride is the number of stops and the amount of time we take to start again. The bigger the group, the more time it will take to start after a stop unless the group is very disciplined. Cruising at high speeds is not at all a must for reaching destination early. Slow and steady progress is what is needed.

So now it was only two of us, Raghu and myself. The crusing speed through these twisties depends on riders ability to bend their rides along with their body and if one is not able to keep the ride towards the left end of the road while taking a curve, then it means that he is riding at a pace which he is not able to control and he has to slow down more while taking curves. All the time one has to ensure that the vehicle is going in the intended path. Especially since the amount of turn in some blind curves are not known, the moment we feels that we are moving towards the middle of the road, we should reduce speed.

We stopped at a view point 12 kms before Gudallur, the first of the stops in this section.


Started from this point by 8:15am,

8:30 am reached Gudalloor, turned left towards Nilambur.

The initial stretch near the Checkpost was not so good roads, but enough for a bullet to march along smoothly. What is attractive is the way these roads are covered by thick dense forests. We sure felt like we are loners wandering through another world pretty much away from the horrible traffic and we were having a feel of the real unpolluted air and enjoying the sound and color of the natural flora and fauna.

A windshield view of this stretch.


Did not get down from the bull even for taking this photo, since we decided to not have any more stops for photo shoots alone.

Soon the bad stretch of road gave way to smooth roads and the twisties got even better. This one route is a real riders paradise, the terrain is perfectly flat, the roads are well maintained, there are practically no blind curves, but there are twisties, perfect to have some fun of swinging and swaying and for the experts to scrap their footpegs. Was so much absorbed with the ride and we did not stop anywhwere in this stretch.

From here on, it was a ride based on time schedule.

10:00am Reached Nilambur. Was looking out for a place to have a refreshing cup of tea and to get updates from our other rider pals.

10:10am Stopped near teak mueseum at Nilambur where there was a tea stall.


Got updated that Balan & Twinspark brothers have passed Gudalloor, but a good 40 kms behind us. Anil, Doc and crankie has started from Ooty 1 hour back and is another 50kms behind Balan.

We enquired about the routes and the tea stall guy was of the opinion that it is better to go through pattamby, rather than going via Valancherry - kuttipuram route.

10:20am Start after the tea break. Rode through the picturesque Nilambur famous for its teak plantations. The roads are pretty good in this section with the big trees on the sides giving ample cover from the shining sun.

Turned left towards pattambi. The roads in this part were not good. Ride till pattambi was through normal bumby roads with not much scenary around.

11:15am: Reached Pattambi. Stopped for a drinks break. Had some cool drinks to cool of our body after the ride through the scorching sun with our riding gear on. After a 15 mins break, started our ride towards Thrissur via the vadakkancherry route. Had thought about taking the Guruvayoor - Paravoor route. But having gone through that route some 3 months back I had experienced the heavy traffic, badly driven private buses and narrow roads in that route. We decided to take the NH 47.

12:00pm Reached Vadakkancherry. No stopping here. The ride through these areas was not that much enjoyable owing to the heat and the traffic around. Still we continued on and on at moderate speeds in the range of 60s.

12.45pm: Reached Thrissur, Had to pass through the dense city traffic and somehow managed to reach the NH47 joining from Palghat. Stopped to fill up the bulls, meanwhile got update from Balan that he decided to wait at Pattambi for the 3rd gang to join. We updated him about our position. We decided to have another hour of riding before having lunch.
Soon the two bulls were speeding away through the NH 47, Passed chalakkudy, Angamaly, Aluva and after 1hr 15 mins came the gateway to Ernakulam

2.00pm Reached Edappally, Took the Ernakulam bypass and again postponed lunch till the bypass ends. The drinks which we had at pattambi was still giving us ample energy. Surprisingly traffic was very less, might be due to the time of the day, and being a holiday people will be taking a good afternoon nap, we thumped our way to Aroor. Once at Aroor decided to have lunch at the next good hotel. Based on our calculation we were on time and we estimated that we will reach trivandrum by atleast 6.30pm after taking a lunch break. But as is the usual case, seldom does estimates meet actuals.

2.30pm Reached Thuravur. Found a good restaurant on the left side of the highway and decided to stop over here. Parked our bulls in the shades of trees in front of the hotel where there was a kids park and pretty good space in front. But time was not good to have lunch as is the case of most of the hotels in Kerala, where the lunch menu will be exhausted by about 2pm and we had to be content with chappathis. Meanwhile got update from the other batch that they have started to ride together and has already started from Pattambi towards Guruvayoor to take the Paravoor route.

3.30pm Started from this restaurant exactly 1hr after we entered and our calculations resulted in a 6.30pm schedule for reaching our destination. This ride was one of the type where we kept our stops to minimal and practically no photo shoots at all. Most of the time we were riding our bulls and maintaining a steady speed. Stability of the bulls and the comfort which it offers to the riders results in we having no fatigue at all even after riding under the scroching sun with no tree cover in the highways.

Just outside the restaurant, I found that Raghu's bull was wobbling and my eyes straight away went to his back tyre to find that it has gone flat. By this time he had realised this and halted his bull. Pushed it out of the road and parked it. Yes another puncture, enough for our estimates to go haywire. But it is an eventuality and we need to tackle it as fast as possible. Raghu offloaded his luggage, while I quickly went back to the next junction to find a tyre shop and picked the guy back to where Raghu was waiting.
Tyre removal was quick with Raghu also helping to remove it, using the tools which he was having.
Back to the tyre shop, removed the tyre and tube, filled air into the tube, dipped it in water to see bubbles coming out of a single spot. It was a small puncture, Meanwhile I checked for the villain who caused this by scanning under the tyre. Found a good nail pierced into the tyre.
This nail was the culprit this time.


First photo after a gap of 6 hours.

While the repair was going on, one local guy came to me asked, which regiment I was working in. He mistook me as a soldier, might be due to my costume and ride hardened look. Even though I try to convince that I am not a soldier, and told him that I am coming back from a trip to Ooty, he somehow was not convinced at all and was heard saying that why should some people simply go to Ooty in a motorbike without any reason and added that our mission might be a secret and hence we may not be disclosing it. He was a retired soldier and also claimed that a soldier could easily recongnise another soldier. Anyway I did not try to convince him any further as his mind was already set and I was not going to gain anything in particular by convincing him.

The puncture was fixed, tube and tyre went back to the rim, filled up air, off goes the tyrewallah and myself back to where Raghu was waiting.



Quickly the tyre went back to where it was supposed to be. Paid the tyrewallah ,dropped him back to his shop, came back, loaded my luggage and had a look at the watch, we spent 1 hr for this repair, so the lunch break was a good 2hrs.

4.30pm. We started our journey after deciding that next stop will be somewhere after Kollam for a cup of tea. The sun was slowly getting ready to set after the hectic work for the day, Hence the ride became more comfortable.

4.45pm: Reached cherthala and that signals the end of the four lane stretch.
Soon we could feel the sea breeze and this signalled the arrival of Alappuzha.

5.20pm: Alappuzha was bidding good bye, the lack of bypass in the busy town eats up the time of long distance tourers through NH 47.

Passed Harippad and NTPC, the Harippad - Kayakulam stretch of road is always bumpy even after relaying, for reasons I am not familiar with. This bumpiness is felt more when we travel in car.

5.50pm Reached Kayamkulam. No stopping here, continued thumping and we were now proceeding as per our revised estimate of reaching destination by 7.30pm.

6.30 pm: Kollam was sighted and so was the heavy traffic. We escaped from kollam town by 6.45pm only because we were on two wheels, had we been on four wheels it may take atleast 30 to 40 minutes to escape from kollam town, lack of bypass is the reason behind this delay.

6.50pm: Stopped near Kottiyam to have a cup of tea from a road side tea stall, popularly known as "Thattukada".

7.00pm: started our final leg of journey, with next planned stop being our destination.
As we thumped along chathannoor, Paripally and attingal, the whole trip was being flashed through our minds like a dream, both of us were keeping a steady pace with one following the other.

7.45pm: Reached our respectivie homes which is hardly 1km apart much to the relief of those at home who are all always anxious whenever we go on touring in two wheels.

Got update from the other batch that they are reaching Ernakulam and are going to have dinner there. They were having a pretty relaxed ride with many photo stops and the traffic in the Guruvayoor - Ernakulam stretch was too hot to handle. Crankie decided to stay at his uncle's home in Ernakulam. Twinspark brothers and Akhil also stopped at Ernakulam since they were residents of Ekm. From there it was Anil, Balan and Doc, Who thumped their way through the NH 47 and reached Trivandrum at 12.30pm when I got a message from Anil "Look ma I am still doing good" which said it all. Went to sleep only after I got this message from Anil, confirming that all my rider pals are back home safe.

It was a pretty eventfull journey, we had experienced a lot of things during this tour,
the helping hand offered by the rider pals when in need,
the joy of thumping together where the pace of the slowest rider is the pace of the group,
Learning good riding manners from experts, by watching them in action,
Riding fast does not mean taking risks and/or rash driving,
A true doctor's responsibility to a fellow human whom he had never ever met in life and a selfless service,
meeting like minded bulletteers from all over India,
the tech mods and the amount of time spent and involvment of people in supercharging their bulls,
the cult culture of some of the hardcore bulletteers,
the busy and hectic Ooty which is fast losing its charm,
the joy of riding through one of the most beautiful and scenic roads of India - the Nilambur - gudalloor stretch.

Each journey gives a lot of memories to cherish, helps to get new friends, refresh and recharge mind for the challanges ahead in life.

It was a pretty long write up, but still I feel as if I had left out lot of things, which I might have added, if I wrote this within 1 month of this trip, which would normally never happen due to other engagements.

Now itz time to plan for the next trip...the next thumper tour...


Rider Mania 2009 - The ride story
Topic Index

Part 1 - The onward journey (Day 1)


Part 2 - Thrissur - Palghat ride (Day 1)


Part 3- Palghat - Coimbatore (Day 2)

Part 4- A Humane Gesture (Day 2)


Part 5- Coimbatore - Ooty & Day 1 @ RiderMania (Day 2)


Part 6 - Day 2 @ Rider Mania (Day 3)


Part 7- The Return Ride (Day 4)

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